Teverun equips its machines with high-quality hydraulic brakes that operate on the exact same principle as those on adult bicycles. This means one thing – with a bit of handy work, you can handle basic maintenance, adjustment, and bleeding right at home in your garage. In this article, you’ll find out how to get your brakes to a state where they won’t make annoying rubbing noises and you’ll have that crisp bite right under your finger.
Ergonomics and Sensitivity: Working on the Handlebars
- Proper angle: Loosen the clamp and rotate the entire brake lever so it smoothly follows the angle of your arm when standing naturally on the scooter. This prevents early wrist cramps.
- Electronic brake engagement: You'll find a tiny nut on the brake switch near the lever. By tightening or loosening it, you can set at what stage of the lever pull (how deep) the electronic motor brake (regen) activates.
End the Annoying Rubbing: How to Align the Brake Calipers
If your brake pads are rubbing or clicking against the rotor, you won’t solve the problem at the handlebars, but down at the caliper. It’s attached to the swingarm with two screws accessible from the side. However, positioning the caliper relative to the rotor is done using the two top screws. The goal is to seat the caliper so that the pads don’t rub against the rotor during normal riding.
- Slightly loosen both top caliper screws so you can freely move it side to side by hand.
- Looking from above (it often helps to put a white piece of paper underneath or shine a flashlight), center the caliper so a tiny gap is visible on both sides between the rotor and the pads.
- Carefully and alternately tighten the screws so the caliper doesn't move again while securing it.
- A simple trick to check if you've done it right is to spin the wheel. You can do this while adjusting. But never hold the throttle while adjusting the brakes; this prevents possible injuries.
- Sometimes adjusting the screws isn't enough, and the rotor needs straightening. Usually, gently prying it in the right direction with a screwdriver does the trick.
What to Do When the Pad Spring is Tired?
Sometimes just centering isn’t enough. In that case, pull the brake pads out of the caliper. Lightly sand their braking surface against fine sandpaper placed on a flat surface. Next, take the metal spacer spring (pad spring) that pushes the pads apart and gently widen it by hand. Once reassembled, the pads will spring back from the rotor much more willingly.
Service Warning: If you notice the caliper is covered in oil and brake fluid is leaking during the job, stop right there. It likely means the rubber piston seals are damaged. You’ll need to contact a service center or replace the caliper entirely.
Prep for Bleeding: What You'll Need
- Pink Shimano mineral oil.
- Bleed kit (eZMTB): We strongly recommend getting the one with metal fittings. Plastic threads can easily strip and have a significantly shorter lifespan.
- Special Teverun adapter: Here is the biggest catch. Teverun brakes have a different thread on the lever, so standard adapters from universal eZMTB kits won't fit.
Bubble-Free Hydraulics Step by Step
- Lever prep: Level the brake lever on the handlebars horizontally so the bleed port is the highest point. On the top of the lever, you'll see three screws. The one with the widest head is for bleeding. Carefully unscrew it.
- Connecting the kit: Screw the special Teverun adapter into the open thread and attach a syringe (or funnel) filled about a quarter of the way with pink mineral oil.
- Pumping: Start slowly and smoothly pulling the brake lever. You'll immediately see air bubbles rising from the system into the syringe.
- Releasing air pockets: Occasionally squeeze the lever and let it snap back quickly. It also helps to lightly tap the brake hose and the lever body itself with the handle of a screwdriver – this frees tiny bubbles stuck to the walls.
- Pressure test: Once no more air comes out into the syringe when pulling the lever, and the lever has a clear, very firm resistance, the system is full.
- Final cleanup: Squeeze the lever, remove the syringe and adapter, and quickly reinstall the screw with the widest head. Carefully wipe off any drops of oil on the lever.
When to Admit Defeat?
If you followed the process to the letter, the brakes have great pressure, but after ten kilometers of hard riding the lever is mushy again, the system is sucking in air from somewhere. Most often, it’s a poorly tightened hose connection or the aforementioned leaking caliper pistons. At this point, DIY servicing won’t cut it. The machine needs to be checked by a professional.